Problems with DC-DC power supply and Gen3 router.

Tanker

I like the DISHY Tech YT channel and it is where I learned about the release of the DC-DC power supply.
Has anyone else had problems with it powering a Gen3 standard router/dish???

When in the field (literal middle of nowhere) I would power my Gen3 using a 400-watt pure sign wave inverter plugged into the 12-volt connection of my truck ('24 Ram 2500 - Diesel - twin 12-volt batteries). When the DC-DC power supply was introduced I jumped at the chance to use the inverter elsewhere and use the native 12-volt from my truck.

From the first try, when I connected the DC-DC power supply to the router, the little LED is on, I would see the SSID pop up in the WiFi connections list, but I can not connect my phone to the WiFi. It keeps giving me a connection failed message on my phone. However, if I switch back to the AC-DC power supply there are NO problems.

I have been going back and forth with Starlink via their ticket system and a couple calls since the 15th of Sep.

So far they have:
Currently I have 2 DC-DC power supplies. The first one I purchased, the 2nd sent as a replacement.
And, 2 Gen3 routers, the original that came with my kit and a replacement.

They sent me a replacement DC-DC power supply to power my original Gen3 router. Thinking there was an issue with the power supply. Same problem existed.
When that didn't work, after a phone call they sent me a new router. Using the 2nd DC-DC power supply and the new router, I still couldn't connect to the WiFi. Their logic (in the ticket), "Yes, after reviewing the troubleshooting steps and considering that the router works with the AC-DC adapter but not with the DC-DC adapter, we believe there may be an issue with how the router interacts with the DC-DC power supply."

I'm beginning to believe there is an issue with the DC-DC power supply working with the Gen3 router(s). Has anyone out there experienced issues with the DC-DC power supply and the Gen3 standard router/dish??? In ALL cases everything works when using the AC-DC power supply. When trying the 2nd router with the AC-DC power supply, I was online in minutes.

Other info (also supplied to Starlink):
Voltage input to DC-DC power supply: 12.4 (engine off)/14.1 (engine running)
Voltage output of DC-DC power supply (engine running and not running): 55.0

Thanks,
Stan

cbaber

The 12V outlet in the truck likely doesn't provide enough power. It's probably fused at 10A, limiting total output. I ran into this same issue on my YT review with my Pecron power station. To be sure you can temporarily take the positive and negative leads from the DC cable and wire it directly to the 12V battery (or fuse block, whatever is easiest). It will likely work fine hooked directly up to the 12V source and not on a 10A fused circuit.

Tanker

Thanks, cbaber. I'm tapping the power from the live non-switched power at the 7-pin connector in the bed of my truck. If I remember correctly it is fused at 30 amps.

However, I will try what you suggested. I have a power connector (cigarette style) that has large battery clips on the other end.

Tanker

I'll be dammed if that didn't work. I used my adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JOY6U7U?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_7) to connect the DC-DC power Supply directly to one of my trucks batteries. I was able to boot the router, connect to it, and get online. It kind of doesn't make sense that it would work there but not at the 7-pin connector. I did confirm that the 12 volt circuit on the 7-pin connector is a 30 amp circuit.

If the DC-DC power supply is going to be this finicky I think I'll have to stick with the inverter to power my setup.

Thanks for the help.

thetraveller333

As a power saving method, manufacturers of newer pick-up trucks, are using a low-power Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) signal to the 7 pin plug in the truck bed, instead of a constant voltage. This does not affect the lights on the trailer, but it does not provide the constant 12 VDC needed by the DC-DC converter.

You will need one of these adapters to provide continuous 12 VDC to the truck bed 7 pin connector: https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Adapter-Replace-2021132201-Trailer/dp/B0CB67JSSV

If you do decide to use one of these adapters, you will need to manually turn on the truck's running lights, not set to "auto", otherwise you will not get the constant 12 VDC.

Tanker

The traveler has come 😃 (Ghostbusters), Thanks.
This is just another thing that makes me wish for the days of vehicles without all these fancy electronics. (FYI I'm 60).
I'm assuming that this PWM is not detectable with something like a DVM (which I was using to measure the voltage at the pin) and would probably only be visible with an oscilloscope to see the pulses. I'm assuming by the name, that the DC voltage is supplied to the connector in some kind of square wave??? I have a degree in engineering but it's mechanical, not electrical. It dose make me wonder if some kind of capacitive circuit, something to convert the pulses to consistent 12v is possible, and it may be how the adapter you referenced works.
My inverter doesn't seem to have a problem with the PWM, I've been powering the dish like that since the beginning.
For me, manually turning on the lights isn't a problem. I'm old school that way and manually turn them on. 😃
Thanks.

Tanker

One thing I just realized, this PWM is also active when the vehicle is off. 🤦